The Gunks (Trapps) in New Paltz, New York is a well-known bouldering destination, set within the Mohonk Preserve and closely tied to the area’s long climbing history. Although the Trapps are most famous for roped routes, gunks bouldering has developed alongside them, with many established problems located directly along or just off the historic carriage roads.

Located just a couple of hours’ drive from New York City, the Trapps offer a chance to enjoy nature outside of the city while staying close to well-traveled paths. Nearby New Paltz adds to the experience with a welcoming small-town feel, a variety of local shops, and a strong food scene, making it easy to relax, explore, and refuel after a day of New York bouldering and gunks climbing.

Many of the boulders are closed during peregrine breeding season, usually starting in February.  Make sure to check the Mohonk Preserve website (https://www.mohonkpreserve.org) for the status.

Cell phone service is available along most of the carriage road. There is no signal in the West Trapps parking lot, but you should be able to use this guide once you’re out on the Undercliff Carriage Road.

Google Earth Bouldering Map:
https://docs.google.com/open?id=1HoFghvZrVxthu_1TRPxOIMVUrfnVVUaL

Gunks, Trapps Bouldering

Start matching on the corner of the rock under the egg shaped boulder. Climb up the right side of the egg. This problem was established by John Gill, who is considered to be “the father of modern bouldering” and also introduced the use of chalk.

The Gill Egg